GLOSSARY OF COMMON 'CHICKEN' TERMS

BANTAM - Small size chickens and cockerels!

BROODY - Term used for a chicken sitting tight on the nest in the hope of hatching some eggs, they will usually protest loudly and peck you if you try to put your hand underneath them.

CANDLE - Method of shining a strong light through an egg to determine if it is developing into a chick.

COCKEREL - Male bird.

COMB - The serrated pink/red fleshy part on the top of the hen or cockerels head. Much larger on the cockerels than hens.

CROP - First section of the digestive system - A 'pouch' where the food is stored at the base of the neck.  It can be clearly felt in the evening when full with food!

HYBRIDS - Chickens of mixed parents and grandparents selected for their productivity from the best strains.

FERTILE EGGS - Eggs from chickens that have been with a cockerel - still fine to eat!

MOULT - Annual event when the feathers are shed and re-grown.  Usually occurs in the Autumn.

POINT OF LAY - Loose term for birds of approximately 16 weeks old.  The pullets do not generally lay until at least 20 weeks so can be a little misleading.

PULLETS - Female chickens under 1 year old, some people class chickens as pullets until they commence laying.  When over 1 year old (or when they begin laying depending on your train of thought) they become 'hens'.

PURE BREEDS - 'Pedigree' chickens who will always breed true (the chicks will resemble the parents). 

ROOST - Chickens at rest or sleeping - usually they should 'perch' on roosts (or sleep on poles above the ground).

SPUR -The nail like growths on the inside lower part of a cockerels legs.

WATTLES - The red fleshy parts hanging below the chickens chin/beak -much larger on cockerels than hens.

 For welfare reasons we can only sell a minimum of two chickens together, and only in exceptional circumstances could we sell a single chicken.  If you are introducing them to an existing flock there is safety in numbers & more than one new hen is vital.  If you are starting from scratch, two birds would be the minimum you would need.

 When you have picked your chicken we will check them a full health check with you and clip their wings (if required).  If you are new to chicken keeping we will happily run through chicken care with you. 

1. Depending on their age the birds combs should be a healthy dark red, however,  young birds will not yet have developed and may have a small, pale comb.

2. Bright eyes with no signs of swelling surrounding them.  

3. Clean nostrils with no discharge.  Whilst respiratory infections are common in chickens, don't choose a bird showing any respiratory symptoms.

4. An alert, bright looking chicken.  Don't pick a hen who is hunched up or with her head tucked up under her wing. 

5. No lice or mites.  Check through the skin around the fluffy feathers near the  birds vent looking for any signs of lice or mites. 

SETTLING YOUR CHICKENS IN

It will take the hens a few days to work out where home is so will need to be kept in a run for a 5 or 6 days.

They need to perch up off the ground out of draughts, although some birds may need lifting up on to the perches for the first few nights to get the idea.

They will still have to sort out the new 'pecking order', and there may be some pecking and squawking for the first few days - just observe them to make sure no hens are being seriously bullied - if you ever see blood remove the hen immediately as the others will peck at blood incessantly (and to the death).  Watch for any smaller or timid hens -if a hen is being bullied she may be cut off from the food and water by the other hens resulting in her getting weaker and eventually dying.  If the hens have plenty of space to keep out of each other's way and are not bored, all should be well after the initial settling in period.

If you are introducing the hens to your existing birds they should be kept separate but within sight of each other for 2 weeks.  This is to quarantine them and give them a chance to settle in.  If you only have one house and run and have to put them in together do not put them into the coop until it is dark and the original hens are roosting.  They will then wake up together in the morning and hopefully not be as shocked by each other, but it is essential you are on hand for the first few days to observe them. 

    Try to keep any stress to a minimum for the first few weeks to avoid any health problems. 

FEED

Layers pellets or mash should be available for the hens ad lib, there is no need to limit the amount they eat.  Layers pellets are their staple diet and provide all the nutrients needed including calcium to make the shells (they will also get calcium from oyster shell).   Try to hang up your feeder a few inches off the ground inside the house, it will stop the birds scratching it out all over the floor and wasting it, as well as discouraging mice.

They must also have access to clean water at all times - they drink more than you would expect - it takes a huge amount of water to produce an egg. 

Hang up vegetables and scraps in a bird feeder to keep the birds entertained.

 LAYING

When the chickens feel settled and they are old enough, they will start laying.  Expect them to lay at about 20-25 weeks, although it may be a bit earlier or later.  You can expect some very small, soft shelled or odd shaped eggs to start with, but they will become larger and more uniform as they settle.

If your hens are already laying when you buy them, don't be surprised if  they stop laying for a week or two when they move house due to the stress.

The hens may not lay where you intend them to initially - I usually just remove any eggs laid in the wrong place and put them into the proper nest boxes, (blocking off the original laying area) - they soon seem to get the idea and start laying where the eggs are.

Please be aware that they are not machines, and there will be periods of time when you may not get any eggs or very few eggs.  Expecting an egg every day off every hen is not realistic.

TAMING THE BIRDS

The chickens may be quite nervous when you first get them.  They will calm down and most will get friendly but please be aware that they are all very different personalities, and whilst some will be trying to get on your lap after a few weeks, others need their own space and will prefer not to be handled.

 If you do want very friendly, tame chickens try to bribe them with corn or scraps.  After a few days they will run to you for food and if handled gently and quietly will soon be eating out of your hand.

I know children love to pick them up, but try to encourage them to be gentle and quiet around them and not to squeeze the chickens - a broken egg inside the bird would be fatal.

ROUTINE CARE 

A basic common routine would involve the following:

Early in the morning - Let out your hens, check they are all well.  Top up feeders and drinkers.

Dusk - Collect any eggs, check the hens again and close in overnight away from the fox.

Weekly - Clean out the hens house and run, wash out feeders and drinkers. Check the house for signs of red mite.

Monthly - Handle your hens to feel their weight. Check carefully for signs of lice, mites and scaly leg mite and treat as necessary. 

Twice Yearly - Worm your hens with Flubenvet mixed in with the feed.

 The hybrid chickens have been fully vaccinated as follows: